I joined the FARC on their last march across Colombia. Here's what I learned about war and peace

CAQUETA RIVER, Colombia— The guerrillas scurried about in the dark wearing headlamps, giving me the impression of giant fireflies. It was 5 AM and I was still lying in my hammock, but around me members of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) were already packing-up their tents and organizing their combat…